The First Worldwide Serbian Highflier Club - WWSH Club - Since April 16th 2004   ~ Prvi Svetski Srpskovisokletački Klub - WWSH Klub - Osnovan Aprila 16. 2004 godine

Some Basics on Pigeons

 I:  HOUSING   
    Let's start this section with housing.  How much space does a Pigeon need?  How big should the pen be?  It was taught to me when I was a junior that the average size Pigeon such as a Homer, Roller, etc. should have at least 4 square feet of floor space per Pigeon.  This would be a 2 foot by 2 foot area.  So, let's say you have a loft that is 8 foot by 8 foot.  In this space you should be able to comfortably accommodate 8 pairs of Pigeons.  It is much wiser to error on the side of less than more.  I will discuss over-crowding later.  For larger breeds, it is best to give them more space.

    You can also set up individual cages for single pairs of Pigeons.  When individual pen breeding small to medium size breeds as described above, you can go with 2 foot square pens for each pair.  You would not want any smaller of a cage and larger breeds will do better in larger cages.  Too small of a pen is not good but there is no such thing as too big of a pen.

    Whether you community loft breed your birds or individual pen breed them, you need a place for young birds once they are weaned from their parents.  This can be a community pen set up with perches.  This type of pen is good to allow young birds to mature in a less stressful environment than a pen with breeding males.
 

II:  SELECTING A BREED
    What breed should a newcomer to the hobby start with?  It is best to start with a lower maintenance breed.  This will give you a feel for what it is to raise Pigeons and will be your best hands-on learning experience with this hobby.  A newcomer might get discouraged if he or she tries to jump in with higher maintenance breeds.  Some breeds can be very difficult to raise successfully as some need foster parents or even hand feeding, some are slow to breed, and some have trouble with breeding.  My suggestion would be to seek out a breed you can find locally that are easy to care for such as Rollers or Homers.  Set up your new birds for breeding and raise a round or two of youngsters from them.  After you are comfortable with the everyday things, then you might want to try a more difficult breed.  The main thing is to find a breed or breeds that you like.  Don't get pressured into acquiring birds because so-and-so said to get them.  Seek out and find birds you like.  You will get much more enjoyment from the hobby this way.  Most experienced breeders are ready and willing to help you get started in Pigeons.  

III:  FEED & WATER
    Now that you have your loft or breeding pens set up, what do you feed your Pigeons?  Most farm supply or feed stores sell some kind of Pigeon feed.  You can feed a grain mix or pellets.  Some breeders even offer both to their birds.  Regardless of whether you feed grain or pellets, it is of the utmost importance that your feed stay dry.  Wet feed will lead to moldy feed and result in sick or dead Pigeons in a short time.  I cannot stress enough how important it is to keep the feed dry.

    Pigeons like many types of grains such as Milo, Corn, Wheat, Peas, and Safflower to name a few.  Most of these grains are in the Pigeon feed you can buy already mixed.  Pigeons also will eat greens such as lettuce and they can also be offered crackers or bread on occasion as a treat.  I have seen my Pigeons pick at leaves and grass as well.

    Another important thing to offer your Pigeons is grit.  If you can get Pigeon grit, it has all the necessities including oyster shell.  Grit helps Pigeons digest the grains they eat.  Even if you choose to feed pellets, it is a good idea to keep grit available to your birds at all times.  Birds that don't get grit over time can suffer long-term effects.  Hens that do not get the calcium that comes from oyster shell will eventually quit laying eggs.  Always keep some kind of grit in front of your Pigeons.  Some breeders even use gravel which works just fine when regular grit is unavailable.

    Your water station for your birds should be set up so the birds cannot dirty their water.  Some diseases can be spread through water so it is best to give the birds fresh water daily.  The cleaner you can keep the drinking station, the better for the birds.  As a healthy additive, you can add a couple tablespoons of Apple Cider Vinegar to the water as often as you like.  This helps to keep the water from building bacteria which can cause you problems later.

IV:  KEEPING YOUR PIGEONS HAPPY AND HEALTHY
    Now that you have the basics, what can you do to ensure your birds stay healthy?  There are a few things you can do that will make a big difference in the health and happiness of your Pigeons.  The first, and most important thing is to not over-crowd your birds.  Over-crowding results in stress that can lead to disease.  When your birds get extra stressed from over-crowding, their immune systems weaken and they can get sick more easily.  I speak from firsthand experience of seeing this in other lofts and I can tell you that when nature culls, it usually takes your favorite birds first.  For the sake of your birds, do not over-crowd.

    As far as general maintenance, Pigeons are pretty hardy birds.  It is best to worm them once or twice a year and it is a good idea to vaccinate for PMV.  Some breeders will also suggest that you vaccinate for Paratyphoid as well.  The PMV vaccination is an annual treatment and is harmless to the birds but can prevent against catastrophic losses.  You should also periodically (as needed) check your birds for feather lice.  These will look like thin lines on the undersides of the wing feathers.  You can treat this easily with dust or spray.

   I hope this has proved helpful and provided some basic ideas on getting started in this great hobby.  People who have Pigeons will tell you it is a very rewarding, challenging, and relaxing hobby that you can pass down to generations.